For his sophomore collection, Vetements and Louis Vuitton alum Alain Paul proved himself to be a rising star in Paris with his clever deconstructive take on formal attire.
It was sophisticated fare, with details rooted in the wardrobe for dance rehearsals. He proposed high-waisted trousers inspired by footless black tights and even reinterpreted the way dancers fold down their waistbands as extra-thick cummerbunds.
There was also a wealth of structured outerwear and double-layer cape dresses as well made with fabric supplied by Nona Source, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s deadstock repurposing platform.
“I was very inspired by this piece called ‘Lamentation’ by Martha Graham from the ’30s for the season, which represents grief, emotion, and anxiety. She portrayed it by transforming emotions into a physical expression,” explained Paul backstage about how the collection was inspired by movements.
The designer said he wanted to mirror his journey in dance with how the collection progressed on the runway. It started with restricted body-con looks that symbolized the rigor around classic ballet, which he was professionally trained in as a child. But as he moved into contemporary dance, the rules were discarded, as he did in the second half of the collection, where a sense of freedom came through.
Their precise execution showed that Paul had been trained at some of the best places in the industry. He mentioned that he studied a lot of vintage garments by cutting them open and seeing how things were done back in the day.
Paul said the idea of a namesake label has been brewing for years. Last year he launched the brand with his partner Luis Philippe, who used to work at Colette under Sarah Andelman.
“At some point I felt that I needed to express myself. So we put a budget aside during our careers to save up. I started with Demna in a living room and it became a brand, so why couldn’t it be us,” he added.
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