Bora Aksu Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: Strength in Fragility

Inspired by the work and life of artist Eva Hesse, Bora Aksu’s fall 2024 collection explored fragility through juxtaposed textures, patterns, and opacities.

Aksu connected with how the painter and sculptor’s background informed her work: Born into an observant Jewish family in Nazi Germany, Hesse and her family fled the country, ultimately settling in New York.

Later returning to Germany in 1964, where she lived for a year and a half, the move proved to be a turning point in her professional life, the Turkish, London-based designer explained to WWD backstage: “All of her work changed because she faced her traumas.” 

“I couldn’t understand how to create beautiful things when you go through grief, and then it happened to me,” Aksu added, explaining that his mother died recently.

“And then you understand that grief is a strange thing and you go through it in waves: sometimes there’s joy, sometimes there’s darkness, but you find peace in that,” he added.

Flouncy dresses and voluminous skirts in cream, caramel and pastel hues were created through layers of whisper-thin tulle and lace, while frills, crochet and bow appliques adorned blouses, knitwear, and coats. 

While maximalism was a mainstay, such as the delicate spindles of hand-knit mohair overlaying dresses and skirts made from metallic organza, more streamlined looks included coats with cable-knit arms, straight-legged trousers, and two-piece skirt suits.

It was a sweet development on motifs from last season, and one that will certainly resonate with his customer.

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