There’s a funny trend surfacing, introduced by the Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen with their The Row spring 2024 collection last September, when towels were thrown casually around the necks of models wrapped in luxe belted coats and wearing satin hotel slippers at their feet. The spa mood escalated pretty quickly over the past fortnight, when bathrobe- and wrapped towel-mimicking looks popped up on the catwalks of the likes of Jacquemus, Moschino and MSGM.
Those seeking compelling alternatives to terrycloth and fuzzy textured renditions of these items should dial Ludovico Bruno. The founder of the emerging yet already hip label Mordecai had a unique take on the trend, crafting a white robe from laser-cut leather, so meticulously chiseled to evoke spongy surfaces.
The garment was the peak of another strong collection presented by the seasoned designer, who is slowly but steadily expanding his brand and cohesively building on its cool study on silhouettes and mix of outerwear, tailoring, martial arts references and exotic echoes.
“The idea was to have [the cast] look like a team of athletes coming out from a karate locker room,” said Bruno, looking at his look book images. Often a literal reference, the sport embodies perfectly that combination of technicality, movement and strength imbued in Bruno’s fashion and his exploration of functionality and lightness.
Here, these elements were expressed in pieces that becoming Bruno’s staples, such as super lightweight puffers in maxi proportions and the judogi-inspired shirts and blazers that can fit any body with their button-less and minimal shape. New additions confirmed Bruno’s expert hand in outerwear, forged during years spent at Moncler — and included cotton bomber jackets and oversize raincoats in his distinctive loose yet measured silhouette, as well as windbreakers in heat bonded nylon as large as parachutes and more restrained double-layered options nodding to kimonos.
Bruno’s signature pants with deep folds opening below the waist and tapering at the ankle were joined by more slender styles with panels that created nice movement, while his take on tailoring was charmingly revisited in paper-thin napa leather treated for a crinkled effect.
The increasing womenswear lineup revealed a more sensual approach via halter neck tops and slits, and the sophisticated shades of blue and saffron yellow that Bruno injected into his otherwise neutral color palette cemented the collection’s appeal.
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