Philipp Plein Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: All That Glitters

This was a show with signature Phillip Plein flash, and flesh, featuring performances by two Italian bands, one punk (yes, really) and the other hip-hop. It unfurled on a steep, pyramid-like set, forcing models in boots with skyscraper heels to tread carefully down the steep steps.

The model who opened the show wobbled in her tall, crystal-spangled boots as she descended the staircase, but regained her balance and gamely struck a pose. The show must go on.

This co-ed collection was mostly black and paved with silvery sparkles, from the boots, jeans and cargo pants to the miniskirts, cropped jackets and floor-sweeping coats bright as the Big Dipper on a clear night.

A biker jacket covered in a bazillion crystals recalled a latter-day Elvis, as did a miniskirt suit adorned with long crystal fringe. Plein styled many of his looks with similarly sparkly baseball caps.

Black gowns came with extra-high slits or peek-a-boo fringing down the back and sides, with long leather or faux fur coats meant to keep out the chill. Plein also introduced a new trouser silhouette with a wide leg, which he showed on men and women as part of his growing tailored clothing offer.

Some looks were glitz-free. A fine corduroy suit in butterscotch, and an oversized white varsity jacket with Philipp Plein scrawled across the back, looked as if they’d wandered in from another show entirely.

Friday night’s show at Milan’s Allianz Cloud arena was just a sexy sliver of the fall offer. Plein said he’s been trying to work more color into the collection, increase the share of womenswear (it currently accounts for 40 percent) and bring men’s and women’s closer together.

The business-minded designer said that in his stores, women have been buying the menswear for themselves, so going forward “we want one theme, one color palette and to show the collections together in the stores,” said Plein, who took his bow wearing a distressed denim shirt with a big hole above the pocket, wide-leg cargo pants and white sneakers.

Next year he’s hoping to stage the show at the new Plein hotel in the historic Palazzo Melzi d’Eril building on Via Manin, which formerly housed Krizia. The hotel will have 18 rooms, La Jungle de Plein bistro restaurant, The Skull bar and a private cinema for small screenings — and undoubtedly a host of high-shine guests.

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