The rarified world of high jewelry has been in the spotlight more than ever over the past few years. Historically shown alongside the couture fashion collections in Paris or debuted with gobsmacking destination trips, it’s a world few people had access to before social media. Now the doors are wide open due to a cast of jewelry content creators, historians documenting collections and a range of head-turning brand ambassadors wearing pieces at the most important red carpet events across the globe. And while high jewelry has for decades been dominated by the luxury names in Europe and a few Americans, the category recently welcomed a few young talents who are helping to expand what it can achieve.
Among them is Emmanuel Tarpin, who launched in Paris in 2017 at just 25 after working in the atelier of Van Cleef & Arpels. He has quickly garnered a lot of excitement — and collectors — for his one-of-a-kind pieces of animal and flora creations that are colorful, whimsical art pieces that almost don’t even look like jewelry at first sight. He is known to show them alongside contemporary art in gallery spaces, taking a more modern approach.
“The first pieces I created were crafted from unexpected materials, pairing gold with aluminum, bronze and precious gemstones,” the French jeweler says. “From the beginning I focused intently on color and texture, as those elements have always drawn me deeply into the creative process.”
“Colombia, 2023. Each year, I travel to a different country to explore gemstone mines to understand more about the ‘mine to market’ journey. I spend approximately two weeks with a family of miners, immersing myself in their daily lives to understand more about human conditions and environmental impact. I feel it’s part of my job and my duty to meet the various players in the jewelry industry, and it’s my way of respecting their craft.”
While he doesn’t use traditional marketing or advertising, he does use social media, highlighting his creations and bringing people along for his creative journey all the way to the mines, most recently taking a trip to the Paraiba mines in Brazil. The journey was organized by two close friends, Carlos Torres and Laurent Massi, both gemologist experts and founders of The Gem Odyssey, which takes small groups on gemstone expeditions all around the world. “Visiting mines is profoundly inspiring,” Tarpin explains. “It adds a new dimension to my design process as I connect with the history of each gemstone. This awareness often influences the story I want to convey through my jewelry.”
WWD Weekend: You have described yourself as a dreamer. How does that apply to your creative process?
Emmanuel Tarpin: Absolutely! I’ve often considered myself a dreamer since childhood — what the French call “être dans la lune,” or having my mind in the clouds. Everything begins with inspiration. I’m very attentive to my surroundings, noticing shapes and colors… I can be easily distracted by anything that inspires me, so I often carry a small sketchbook and pencil to capture quick ideas I want to remember throughout the day.
WWD Weekend: Where did your love of nature begin and what led you to center it in your work?
E.T.: I was born in the French Alps, surrounded by nature — majestic landscapes, high-altitude lakes, and dense forests. Nature has always been a boundless source of inspiration, especially in its details: the shape of a leaf, the color of a bird, the sounds and scents of the environment. When you truly pause to take it all in, nature offers an entire atmosphere.
WWD Weekend: How has learning more about the mining process from beginning to end helped influence how you bring the gemstones to life in your work?
E.T.: Going to the mines is my way of honoring the entire mine-to-market process. I think we don’t talk enough about how gemstones are sourced, the working conditions of miners, and the environmental impact. I try to raise awareness by sharing my experiences and highlighting these aspects with others.
“The black orchid brooch in white gold, silver and antique oval-cut diamond. I love working on textures in each piece I create; here, you can see the contrast between the matte black patina and the bright sparkle of the diamond. I enjoy when there’s a real dialogue between the sculpture work and the gems I use.”
WWD Weekend: You push yourself to experiment with new materials and techniques. How has this helped shape what you create?
E.T.: Experimentation is integral to my work. Finding the right patina, texture or weight is always a challenge, especially for unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. Each creation is different and demands specific techniques and materials based on the design. The process is filled with surprises, which is what makes it so exciting. Every piece has its own story to tell.
WWD Weekend: What creative icons inspire you?
E.T.: I have a deep appreciation for Art Nouveau in jewelry, especially René Lalique’s work. His ability to capture nature and his incredible sculptural use of plique-à-jour enamel truly inspire me. I’m also drawn to Iris van Herpen’s work in fashion; her artistic vision and delicate approach speak to me on an emotional level.
“Lagoon earrings in titanium, yellow gold, sapphires, aquamarines and Paraiba tourmaline. Color is essential in my work; it brings light, life, and catches the eye. I chose a very minimal design to focus on the color gradient, representing sunlight over the Caribbean lagoons, very smooth.”
WWD Weekend: How do you think a modern customer should enjoy and wear their jewelry?
E.T.: I believe jewelry should be worn however one wishes. A piece of jewelry isn’t just for special occasions — it can be beautifully worn with something as simple as jeans and a white shirt, allowing the piece to stand out. Whether it’s a brooch on a turtleneck or belt, or bold earrings for a stroll in the park, these choices allow us to move beyond traditional views and make jewelry a more personal, integrated part of our lives.
