“Today, I’m going to tell you the story of the uniform through fabrics,” said Theory’s chief merchant and creative officer Jeffrey Kalinsky at the beginning of his spring show.
Since joining Theory, Kalinsky has been dedicated to creating polished, straightforward clothes through the idea of uniform wardrobing. He did so again for spring, offering up a balance between the masculine and feminine through a selection of repeating Mod-ish silhouettes in an array of varying fabrications.
Like fall, Kalinsky also moderated the runway to describe not only each look’s silhouette and fabrication, but to thank his expansive creative teams and pepper in upbeat commentary, making his wearable offering feel even more real.
The show kicked off with “the perfect start to the uniform” — a sleek charcoal mélange pencil skirt with boxy menswear white cotton button-down, paired with silver metallic wedge slingbacks. Then came Sasha Pivovarova, clad in a simplistic charcoal wool pencil dress, followed by a selection of hits including double-pleat men’s pants; boxy tops and crisp blazers; polos; straight shift and A-line minidresses; car and trenchcoats, and more.
The line flowed from charcoal wool and navy into straw-hued basketweave linen (which looked great for spring) and ivory unwashed organic cotton (said to be used historically for Theory menswear) before transitioning into a selection of tortoise crepe numbers, such as Kalinsky’s favorite single-button blazer with high-waist straight pants and a classic shirt.
“I was feeling for a very understated, subtle, chic palette,” Kalinsky said of the lineup, which ended with ivory crepe and merino wool, clear sequined white crepe and metallic silver silks. “I loved all these boxy jackets with slimmer silhouettes on the bottom, or a slimmer silhouette on top with full bottoms — playing with proportions.”
The Theory uniform nicely spanned from day to night, like a pearl-buttoned merino wool twinset and miniskirt, a tiny white cotton T, “the most important piece in the wardrobe,” with pencil skirt, or midriff-baring spaghetti strap crop top with straight maxiskirt — both of the latter (minus the T) in white crepe, covered in shimmering clear sequins.