Toteme’s style universe expanded Monday night with its first runway show in Paris. It marked the 10th anniversary for the Swedish brand, co-founded by husband-and-wife Karl Lindman and Elin King.
Overall it was a calming, cohesive presentation of precise, polished and very wearable wardrobe staples that fit cleverly between men’s week – with this season’s masculine tailoring bent — and couture — with its continuing focus on sustainability and craftsmanship.
“We always stay true to our DNA, but now we are very confident in our uniform,” said King after the show. And it showed.
Outerwear was an emphasis point, with wider cut blazers gently sloping at the shoulder while retaining their scaffolding, while coats were single-breasted or faux fur that built out plenty of volume. Pants were slim cut and settled gently below the waist, with skinny, relaxed belts on the hip.
Some of the looks were elevated takes on their archival pieces, and they reinterpreted their viral scarf jacket in a wrap-neck sweater. Lightweight knits were layered to envelop the body like a soft hug.
Shades of cream, caramel and this season’s chocolate comprised much of the very soothing palette.
Pointed shoes were the sole sharp edge in the collection, hitting a vaguely ’90s edge.
Speaking backstage the duo were clear they are designing with the real-life, working woman in mind and don’t intend to do otherwise. Their market is clear — and expanding. They added the jewelry category last fall, and expanded handbags for fall, a few of which were seen on this runway.
The brand took over the former Balenciaga space on London’s Mount Street on Dec. 15, and will open its first doors in Los Angeles at the beginning of April.
What’s next? Lindman joked: “We’re going to the moon.”
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